My love affair with China town started when my family moved to Redfern in 1987.
We used to walk to Paddy’s market every Saturday to buy our weekly vegetables. Vegetables is about the only thing my father actually enjoys spending money on, so we would all embrace this with gusto…
That market place is a happy and excited place, full of wonder, noise and smells. Being an extroverted little blonde curly haired thing I relished the attention I got from the stall holders and generally charmed my way into a free handful of cherries or hot nuts.
When we moved to Bondi, we didn’t get to Chinatown as much…
Something I’m making up for now.
I go to Chinatown at least 3 times a week, for delicious dumplings, fun supermarket shopping and generally my work will take me there too.
CHINESE NOODLE RESTAURANT.
Condiments include: Black Vinegar, soy sauce, chilli flakes in oil
Free: Water and tea
In Burlington Arcade, which isn’t actually really an arcade. When you arrive you will be met (attacked) by the door man of the other Chinese noodle house, he will scream a you to have your meal there, “to take a chance” to “try something new” he will beg too “Please, Please” he will cry…do not be sucked in. This is not where you should dine and part with your (too) few pennies.
Instead keep walking to the other Chinese Noodle Restaurant, where you will most likely be greeted by a violin playing door man and a gaggle of harried women ushering you in to their tiny space. The ceiling should be covered in plastic grapes and there should be tapestries of colonial Dutchland on the walls…yes? Right place.
The tea is plonked on the table, chilli flakes in oil come thick and free and you will need to ask more napkins. One of the best parts of dumpling eating and beyond in the depths of Chinatown is the freedom of concocting your own condiment. Making ones own mix of black vinegar, soy sauce, chilli oil and chilli flakes is a very satisfying and delicious exercise.
Once your personal condiment has been created you can move on.
I can recommend the following dishes, both for their deliciousness, price and consistency.
Egg and Chive pastry…start with this. It comes quick and hot, creamy egg mixed with garlic chives and spread out on a thin pastry, folded and fried on a hot grill plate…a Northern Chinese Gozleme, if you like… Dipped in chilli and gobbled while boiling has to be one of my favourite snacks. Next come the dumplings, fillings are either egg and chive or pork and chive. No messing around here. They come fried, boiled or steamed and are available in huge proportions…16 dumplings for $8 anyone?. Ridiculous. Rad.
These are the two dishes I go back for everytime, I have however, strayed from this rule and ordered more from their vast menu… The fragrant braised eggplant was somewhat sticky/crunchy on the outside and soft and creamy on the inside, perfect combo. The tofu hot pot stew, tasted, as my fellow diner said, a bit like hot vegemite…
The braised green beans with fried chilli were delicious but the vegetable noodle soup seemed like they had got a handful of vegetables from the bottom of the fridge, chucked them in hot water and thrown in some noodle. The noodles were pretty amazing though. It is after all, what this tiny Northern Chinese diner is famed for, their noodles. Thin and thick all at once, cooked al dente (is there a Chinese term for this?) and extremely Moorish…I will go back and try what the girls next to me were tucking into, minced pork and chives on a bed of noodles.
All of this, washed down with a can of Tsing Tao (bought next door for $2) and then you are brought the bill. Everytime I think “oh, they must have missed something” but no, it’s just really freakin’ cheap. I have never paid more than $10 in there and everytime I walk away chirpy and satisfied. A perfect combo.
Go there.
GOOD COMBOS 